Bouldering in the urban forest

My only bouldering experience was in Squamish Grand Wall Forest, where all boulders are under the forest and in the nice shade all the time. Today is a little bit different -- I went bouldering with Gary and his friends in Tsuen Wan, the boulders are exposed at the top of the hill, superb view to the city and the weather was decent enough even though I still felt quite humid the whole time.


The 45 minutes up-hill approach is a bit uneasy but worthy with the superb view along the trail


Me and Ahdont celebrating our awesome ascent




Amazing view of the city

Nothing much happening in last few days except I went up to Shen Zhen, the city right across Hong Kong border, to open a bank account so I can get cash across China. I was told the China Postal is the best and very accessible even in relatively rural areas and towns.

I was a little nervous to bring so much cash (few thousands worth of Canadian dollars) up across the border as I heard too much horror stories. But everything went smoothly and no hassle. After a little of pokering I found a mini-bus to get me to the bank and it took only 5 minutes to set everything up.

The city is so different from my last visit around ten years ago. Constructions are in full wing everywhere and they are even digging the subway. I have no motivation to stay any longer and I head back to Hong Kong right after. As I have another family gathering with my two little cousin.

I supposed to stay home today to start packing and sort out all the money details for the trip. But I got a call from Gary and decided to head to Tung Lung Island again to get some climbing done. It was too many people on Sunday and was like a festival so I was hoping it would be less people during the weekday. Gary said there are not ferry service to the island during the week and we need to hire a speed boat to get there. He managed to get 9 people on the boat and it costs $60HKD for each person round trip.


Reportedly there are few routes inside the cave but Gary said it is too scary and the rock are loose

Okay it is a speed boat but I didn't expect it can be blazing fast. The boat nose was 30 degree upward the whole time with the giant engine propel at the back. It was a little scary at first but since all the passengers look so clam I guess I should at least relax a little bit. It takes only 15 minutes to get to the island while it takes 45 minutes on the regular ferry! And it docks right next to the crag that saves us another 20 minutes approach.


Gary's getting ready for the climb. Note the overhanging wall but permanent chalk mark on every hold. It is more like a outdoor gym than adventurous sport climbing :-)

It is absolutely no body there and unusually quiet as 15 minutes ago we were still in the crowded city. It is so graceful just to sit there for the whole day. In fact I don't plan to climb much, it is nice just to meet up with him with the nice surrounding.


Occasionally strong wave hit on the rock right next to us


The only gorceries store operated by a really old lady

I don't know why but I always ended up on some hard routes when I said I want to take it easy. It looks like Gary is really keen on showing me some awesome routes that he has been working on or had been red-pointed. Later the day I managed to redpoint the "Purple Heart" (F7a), a really technical yet endurance kind of climb. The boat came back at 5pm to pick us up. On the way back we got "pull over" by the Marine Police, at first I thought we were over the speed limit but the driver said it is a routine check for "II" (Illegal immigrant). Fortunately I brought my ID with me today otherwise they might send me back to China. Oh wait! Isn't that nice to have a free ride to China?! :-)


Your Driver License Please!

I met up with Pazu today. This is my second time meeting him in person since we first met in Budapest during the Europe trip three years ago and amazing he has been backpacking since then. Even now I still don't quite understand how he can manage to travel for over three years without needing to make money.. He once mentioned that his family has a store sells BBQ Pork in downtown. I guess they must have been making lot of money by just selling BBQ?

Later in the evening we went to a famous SiChuan Chinese restaurant in Kowloon. Eska, the girl in the Europe trip was there also. Such a nice reunion.

After the climbing trip on Sunday and met whole bunch of new people, I went to the Immigration Office to apply the HKSAR passport on Monday monring. While I am waiting in queue I bumped into the guy Ray who lend me the sandals on Sunday, what a coincident! I promised I will return his sandals on Wednesday evening in the climbing gym.

It turns out that I won't be able to get the passport until mid November! The officer said unless I have flight ticket to prove the urgency otherwise he can't give me the express service. Oh well I guess I can come back to Hong Kong two months later to pick it up as I don't really need the passport to travel in China. Yeah I can come back in Chinese New Year to make some red pocket money!

It is a little crazy to sport climbing the day after I arrived in Hong Kong in mid night. With jet lag and little sleep, I met up with my friend Candice, she just started climbing indoor and yesterday was their outdoor lesson. I decided to tag along and check out the famous sport crag Technical Wall in Tung Lung Island. To my surprise Winsor was able to make it so now I have a perfect belay slave :)

Tung Lung Island is about 30 minutes mini-ferry ride from the east end of Hong Kong Island, it is a small but beautiful island that you can walk along the coast line for less than 2 hours. The wall although a little small, pack with a lot of awesome sport routes. The granite here is definitely different from Squamish, has a lot of features and amazing pockets. A short easy route get me used to the warm rock and the strong water wave hitting the rock creates a very energetic climbing music.


Climbers getting ready of their first climb

There was about 60 people sharing 30 routes, I was told it is indeed less crowded than summer weekends. It is interesting that they share the ropes and quick draws with everything else. The draws hang on the rock for the day so anyone can use it. They also expect you to share the top rope once you have led up the route. Occasionally strong wave hit the platform with sea water flushing into it, wetting the ropes and climbing shoe. People said it is common in Fall when wind is strong.

With no prior warning, I put my sandals on the high risk flushing area and the first wave took away of my shoes!! I didn't notice my sandals was gone for the first 15 minutes until I saw it floating on the sea and surely it looks like mine!! Now I have no shoe to go home! I can't believe I lost it the first day of outing. Damn!

Forgot about this incident, Winsor and I climbed couple of interesting line. Candice's instructor Sami suggested me to try the "Big Roof" as it looks very juggie and overhanging. It is F6c+ and surprisingly I managed to on-slight it. It seems to be easier than 5.11d but this kind of endurance overhanging climb surely is what I used to in my home gym. Winsor also led a route with confident. Later the day I unlocked two other F6c+ routes, also are overhanging jugs haul. I felt really comfortable with the climbs and took few clean falls when frighting the cruxes. It was good.


Sunset and the fishing hatch

We met whole bunch of people there and went for dinner together to finish off the day. Once they know I came from Vancouver, they keep telling me about how expensive the Arcterx stuffs in Hong Kong and their eyes dropped that we have the factory outlet with half price of what they are paying on backpacks and jackets. They are some of the top climbers in Hong Kong and have been to Yosemite and few other places. They are one the nicest group of people I have ever met and I was offered another sandals to go home...